The Two Seven Public House

The Moon Burger

The Two Seven Public House is a nigh hidden restaurant in the Lincoln Heights Shopping Center on the South Hill. It opened in 2008, and bolstered by the popularity of its sibling restaurants, The Two Seven Public House quickly became one of Spokane’s treasures.

Like nearly all of its sibling restaurants, The Two Seven Public House doesn’t serve fries. This is definitely hurting the overall score, and unfortunately, The Moon Burger itself is lacking in a few key aspects. It’s a good burger, but not good enough to carry the restaurant’s score on its own.

The Burger

The Two Seven Public House only serves one burger with a beef patty, and it’s pretty close to a traditional cheeseburger. Made with a locally-sourced 6 ounce patty, and topped with cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, lettuce, and mayo, the only traditional ingredient missing from The Moon Burger was a slice of tomato.

Although the burger wasn’t much to look at, it smelled amazing. Seriously, I couldn’t wait to dive in and let my taste buds enjoy what my nose was already savoring.

The bun wasn’t anything special, and was too lightly toasted for my tastes. The patty was cooked well done, with no pink in sight. According to the menu, it’s char-grilled, and based on what I saw, felt, and tasted, that seems accurate. The patty tasted great, but could have done with just a pinch more salt and pepper. I wouldn’t describe the patty as dry, but it wasn’t as juicy as others I’ve had. The burger as a whole wasn’t dry, so at least there’s that.

The ingredients all seemed to be quite fresh, and having the lettuce off to the side until I was ready to eat it helped prevent wilting.

The caramelized onions were understandably dominant, which I suspect is what the burger’s creator was going for. It was a good flavor, but I would have preferred more balance. I also craved a tomato flavor, which was noticeably absent. Adding a little ketchup to the burger provided some tomato flavor, so I would suggest putting a bit on right at the start.

The Fries

I’ll be honest and say I feel terrible about The Two Seven Public House getting as low of a score as it did. The burger was good—definitely better than some others with higher scores—but the lack of fries is having a major impact.

The closest thing to fries The Two Seven Public House serves are Tim’s Cascade Style Potato Chips, which are a kettle-cooked potato chip. I know this will be an unpopular statement, but I dislike Tim’s chips. I’ve never liked them. To me, they’re overcooked, greasy, and far too crunchy.

So instead of getting a pile of potato chips with my burger that I knew I wouldn’t enjoy, I opted for one of the other choices on the menu: The roasted corn pasta salad.

The roasted corn pasta salad is famous in the Inland Northwest, and for good reason. The cold, slightly spicy pasta salad is a far cry from a pile hot, crispy fries, but you’ll get no complaints about it from me.

Unfortunately, because it isn’t a pile of hot, crispy fries (or even cold, limp fries), it can’t be counted toward The Two Seven Public House’s score.

The Price

The Moon Burger at The Two Seven Public House, with whatever side you choose, will cost you $11 before tax.

It was a good burger, and the roasted corn pasta salad was delicious, so for the meal, I think it’s a decent value. However, this project is trying to find the best burger and fries, and so when we view the price through that filter, it ends up not being a very good value.

The Restaurant

The Two Seven Public House is part of a family of restaurants across Eastern Washington and Northern Idaho, including The Elk, Moon Time, and most recently, Geno’s.

The décor at The Two Seven Public House seems like it’s supposed to be reminiscent of a traditional English public house. That definitely feels like it was the jumping off point, and then modern and American touches were added. As unlikely as it might seem, the resulting combination works.

I was there during the lunch hour on a weekday, and while the place was clean overall, a few crumbs were visible across the floor. Natural light streamed in through the many windows, but despite this, the place still managed to feel a bit dark. This may just have been my own perception due to how bright the windows seemed compared to everything else.

My server was prompt and friendly, and I appreciated that an entire container of water was brought to my table and left for me to refill my glass at my leisure.

There was music playing, but it was so quiet that for most of the meal I didn’t notice it, instead unintentionally eavesdropping on the conversation of several people at a nearby table. The open dining room feels a bit too open at times, and not being able to avoid the conversations of other patrons was contributing to this feeling.

The bathrooms were clean and looked nice, although the music playing in the bathroom was different to that of the dining room, which was weird. Not bad, just strange. The locks on the bathroom doors were those deadbolt-style locks that indicate whether the bathroom is occupied or available, which I love. Why aren’t all bathroom door locks like that?

As I alluded to in the review, The Moon Burger at The Two Seven Public House is delicious, as is the roasted corn pasta salad.

Yeah, the official score is a low one, but all that means is this restaurant isn’t a good fit for this project’s goals. Seriously, ignore the low score and you’ll likely find a tasty burger, as well as one of the best pasta salads in Spokane.

The Two Seven Public House
2727 S Mount Vernon St Spokane, WA 99223
(509) 473-9766

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Disagree with my review? That's cool, people have different tastes. Feel free to leave a comment and tell me why you think I got this one wrong. But keep your comments civil or they'll get deleted.

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